Selecting Pocket Door Hardware

Read the instructions that accompany the door kit you’ve purchased, and then frame the door to the manufacturer’s recommendations. The door will not work properly if the opening isn’t plumb or the heading isn’t level.

One of the larger manufacturers, Johnson Hardware, makes a cut-to-length universal frame header, fully steel-reinforced split jamb and stud uprights, and removable track hardware. The kit is designed for very fast installation into a pre-framed rough opening. Complete instructions make this a manageable job for do-it-yourselfers. Standard sizes are for doors up to 3 feet wide and 6 feet, 8 inches tall, but other systems for larger doors may be special-ordered. Pocket Door Installation

Pocket doors can really convey a sense of openness. Installing them is easy; however, there are a few things to consider that can help make your installation proceed smoothly. First of all, depending on the height of the ceiling and the presence of a support beam directly above your planned door opening, you may have to raise the header in order to install a 6" 8" door. Check with your local building department if you are unable to fit in a full 6" 8" door size as there may be some local code requirements.

Space became a major issue because the cost of land development became higher. This prompted people to find ways to maximize their space, sans the revival of the pocket doors. Aside from that, the pocket door hardware was improved to perform better, become less noisy, and give people a problem free operation. Individuals are thrilled to use it because they no longer need to deal with the space a swinging door occupies. Homeowners who have wheelchairs or walkers do not have to exert too much effort in order to operate the door. This allows different individuals who have varying needs to feel more comfortable moving about in their house. Materials used for pocket doors

My pocket door kit came from Lowe’s and cost me about $70. It included a frame that goes inside the wall to make space for the door, a header with a roller track from which the door will hang, and a door jamb. It also had all of the hardware needed to hang the door from the track (two rollers and two hangers). It did not include the nails needed to put the kit together or to attach it to the studs and floor. I re-used the louvered door that was originally on the other side of our utility room, so I was spared the cost of buying a new door. There will be some elbow-grease involved in refinishing it, though.